Japanese Cross Back Apron | Sewing Pattern Reviews

Looking for a cute and practical sewing project? Here’s how to sew a Japanese cross back apron.

I must admit I’m not a big apron person. That being said, I should be. Often when cooking or working in the yard, I find that I’ve spilled or made a mess and then I end up having to change clothes and spot treat a stain.

At school, I came upon a colleague who wears the cutest apron while working with her primary students. It keeps her clothes clean from messy little fingers and she looked so cute in it. She inspired me!

What is a Japanese Cross Back Apron?

The Japanese cross-back apron is an apron that does not have ties. I love this fact. I find that ties can come undone or loosen. Sometimes they ride up and they’re just so fiddly to deal with.

Instead, the Japanese cross back apron has arm slots that you simply slip on. No more ties to adjust. Because it has a cross back, you need not worry about the straps falling off your shoulders. The cross-back apron is easy to wear.

The Japanese cross back apron typically has a pinafore front – similar to that of a bib apron. Sometimes you will hear this referred to as a pinafore apron or a smock apron. Pockets are a must for me when it comes to just about anything. So patch pockets are an easy add-on.

When looking at them online, you’ll find that they are typically made out of linen. They drape nicely over your clothes. They’re just easy to wear. I knew I had to make one….or two for that matter!

Kids even wear a Japanese cross back apron! They’re great if you have a little helper in the kitchen. They’re also great for messy activities like arts and crafts.

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Japanese Cross Back Apron Sewing Pattern Options

Sure you can purchase a pattern for this. They’re available on a variety of platforms online, including Etsy. But I wanted free. If I get a free pattern then I can splurge a bit on the fabric.

I looked at 2 different free, sewing patterns. The first is from Japanese Sewing Books and can be found here. This pattern comes in adult, as well as child-sized. I really like the rounded corners in the back of this. I tested this pattern as-is and found it rather long and somewhat slim. The result takes a bit to get on, but once it is on, it is quite streamlined. There is no pocket included with this pattern so you would have to add on one if you wanted one.

The other free sewing pattern is from the Tessuti Shop and can be found here. The Tessuti pattern is a one-size-fits-all, adult pattern. This is a somewhat roomier version of a Japanese cross-back apron. The straps are wider on this one as well.

Supplies Needed

fabric: While linen is the traditional fabric, you could also consider quilting cotton, twill, or canvas. You don’t want it too thick and heavy, but you also want some protection while having a bit of drape. Consider even using a table cloth from the thrift store or dollar store. I did this for my testing.
I was able to make an apron using 1.2 metres (about 1.3 yards) of fabric that is 140 cm (55 inches) wide. Don’t forget to prewash your fabric as there may be some shrinkage.
optional: bias tape. This is used to finish the edges all around. You can make your own or purchase it already made. I use the binder attachment on my cover-stitch machine for mine. The Tessuti pattern simply has you folding over the raw edge twice to hem. This works too.
sewing machine: I used 3 machines to make mine – a regular sewing machine, my serger, and a cover-stitch for making my apron, but a regular sewing machine for all the steps will work as well. I used my sewing machine for all the topstitching, the serger for attaching the straps and bib facing, and my cover stitch with the binding attachment to cover the edges.
sewing notions: iron, thread, scissors. pins/clips, etc.

Sewing Pattern Review

For me, the perfect pattern was a combination of these 2 patterns. I used the Tessuti Pattern as a base as it was a bit roomier and easier to get in and out of. Here are the modifications that I made to this pattern:

Rounded the corners so that it was similar to the one from the Japanese Sewing Book.
Doubled the size of the pocket – do this by placing the pattern piece on the fold. I also added an inch to the height to make it even bigger. I sewed right down the centre, vertically so that it is actually 2 pockets.
I needed to increase the width of the bib facing to make it fit. I also added an inch to the height.
I used the binding attachment on my Cover Stitch machine to hem my apron and so I removed a half-inch around the bottom edge and straps to accommodate the fact that I wouldn’t be folding over the edge to hem. The binding attachment applies a double-fold binding directly on the cut edge of the piece. I did not take anything off the top of the bib part or the armholes.

Pockets are a must-have for me.
They’re also the perfect place to sew in my tags.

The Japanese Sewing Book Pattern consists of 4 pieces: front, 2 sides, and bib facing. You could eliminate the side pieces by attaching them next to the front piece and cutting them as one. This cuts down on one sewing step.

The Tessuti pattern consists of 4 pattern pieces as well: the main body (the sides are attached), the straps, a pocket piece, and the bib facing. The difference is that the straps are separate. I find that this actually helped me save on fabric.

The Japanese cross-back apron is an easy sew. Perhaps the biggest part was finishing all the edges with the binding. Thankfully, the binding attachment on my cover-stitch makes it really easy to do. In order to use the binding attachment, I needed several strips of 1.5-inch wide fabric for the binding.

Tips for Sewing with Linen Fabric

I used a linen-cotton blend as it is a bit cheaper than 100% linen. The added cotton helps cut down on the wrinkles as well. I chose linen blends that had more linen than cotton. Specifically, it was 55% linen and 45% cotton.

Linen also comes in various weights. You’ll want something with a bit of medium weight to it. The striped linen blend I used was 160 gsm and has a lovely drape to it.

Have a good iron handy. You’ll need to press often with a lot of steam. You’ll never get all the wrinkles out – that is the look of linen but it certainly helps to get things to lay flat. I found this especially helpful after doing the binding.

Check the needles on your machine. When trying to bind, my cover-stitch machine was making some funny noises as the needles kept hitting the plate for some reason. After rethreading several times to no avail, I put in new needles and the problem was immediately solved. I must admit I don’t remember the last time I changed my needles on my cover stitch. There had been no issues with knit fabrics but I guess the texture and thickness of the linen made the dull needles more apparent.

While linen may seem “fancy”, it is very wash-and-wear. It also gets softer with age. Don’t be afraid to splurge and treat yourself or a friend to a Japanese cross back apron made of linen.

Look how it turned out! I’m so pleased with it. It’s so easy to wear and now when I’m cooking or working in the yard I don’t have to worry about my clothes. I must admit that sometimes on the weekend I end up wearing this all day!