SED Mandy Top and Dress | Sewing Pattern Review
Sonia Estep Designs has created another great pattern. Here is the sewing pattern review of the SED Mandy top and dress.
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Most recently I had the opportunity to help test the SED Lucy top, which is a cute little halter neck swing top. I also extended it into a dress. Well almost immediately, the Mandy top and dress came out for testing. Once I saw it, I knew I wanted to test it as I loved the look.
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About the SED Mandy
The Mandy is a relaxed-fitting top or dress. What I love about it is that it has an optional built-in waist tie – kind of like a belt. It gives people like me, the illusion of a waist.
As mentioned, the Mandy can either be a top or a dress. Two different lengths are included. As well, there are 2 sleeve options – either short or long.
Fabric Suggestions
Mandy is designed for knit fabrics with a minimum horizontal stretch of 20%. Be wary of fabrics with a lot of drape (rayon spandex, ITY, etc) as the tie part may bag out and not look the way you want. So you want a knit fabric, but one with a bit of structure so that the tie looks neat and tidy.
If making the tie feature, I would personally stay away from stripes or stripe patterns as I don’t really like the look when it is all scrunched up. Solids and all-over random prints work best in my opinion.
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Sizing Tips
The crucial part of this pattern is the placement of the tie. It is based on a side waist of 8 inches. It is important to add or subtract length so that the tie is exactly at your waist.
You also want to check all your measurements carefully in order to maintain the relaxed or semi-loose fit. Once tied, the garment has some ruching which will look better if it is not fitted. As I result I did have to do some grading between my upper bust measurement to my waist and then to my hips. A French curve is very handy for this as it helps create natural-looking lines.
I also shortened the pattern based on my height. The pattern was drafted for someone who is 5’5. As I am 5’1, I shortened it by 2 inches. Typically the rule of thumb is to shorten a 1/2 inch for every inch of difference in height. As I am 4 inches shorter than what it was drafted for, I took off a 1/2 inch for each of the 4 inches, totalling 2 inches. If you need to do this, be sure to do it below the tie so that it does not affect its placement.
Sewing Pattern Review
Although the pattern may seem somewhat complex with the tie, it is really quite easy. It basically consists of 3 pieces – the front bodice, the back bodice and a tie piece. If you are adding sleeves, there is an additional piece.
When cutting out the front bodice, it is an oddly shaped piece that requires the formation of one tie. It really is quite easy.
The back bodice consists of 2 pieces, mainly because the front bodice, being oddly shaped, may take up a lot of fabric as it needs to be cut on a single layer. Since I was making a small size, I was able to cut my back bodice on the fold. I simply moved it over by 1/4 inch to account for the seam allowance.
There is a neck binding pattern piece, however as usual I used the binding attachment on my Babylock Cover Stitch instead. The sleeves are simply hemmed.
I love patterns that come together quickly. The tie feature in this garment is really what sets it apart from other tops and dresses. Isn’t it funny how a detail like that can make all the difference?
I made 3/4 sleeves on this version.
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