How to Sew a Better Face Mask

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It seems that wearing a non-medical face mask has become the norm now. Some grocery stores require a face mask in order to shop there. If I want to go get a coffee, I need to wear a face mask. At the moment, taking public transit requires a face mask. So I was looking at ways to improve the function and construction and so here is how to sew a better face mask.

During the past couple of months at home in isolation, I’ve done my fair share of sewing masks, button headbands and scrub caps. You can read all about that here.

Homemade face masks are made with non-medical grade fabric. Therefore there is no claim to protect against a virus or particles. The masks are not meant to be worn when in direct contact with a virus, specifically Covid 19. Homemade masks are worn at the discretion and judgement of the wearer.

Areas of Improvement

While there is no one, perfect homemade face mask, I found there to be a few areas of improvement.

• Fabric. Most home sewers have access to 100% cotton fabric which for the most part makes a decent mask. Quilting cotton typically has a dense weave. The purpose is to act as a barrier. In order to improve the barrier, homemade masks are often at least 2 layers – sometimes 2 pieces of quilting cotton or 1 piece of quilting cotton and 1 piece of cotton flannel. Sometimes there are even 3 layers to create a pocket so that some sort of filter can be added to improve the barrier. I have read things ranging from a piece of paper towel to a coffee filter used as a filter. With the weather warming up, I was beginning to find the cotton masks quite warm to wear. What kind of fabric can we use to make a better mask that still acts as a proper barrier and is lightweight?
• Fit. While no face mask is comfortable, how can we improve the fit? Many homemade masks offer a nose wire, similar to the medical ones that can conform around your nose, providing a better fit. For a homemade mask, this would require the sewing of a pocket to allow for the insertion of wire. Various materials have been used for the actual nose wire, some of which have to be removed when laundering the mask. What about the chin? No one ever talks about the mask fitting snugly under the chin? Perhaps that’s just not an issue? Much of this is also just personal preference. How can we improve the fit of a homemade mask?
• Construction. The sewing of a face mask, in general, is not too bad. I know many who are mass-producing masks for donations or for family and friends. I have read mixed reviews about the contoured shaped mask as it has a centre seam which could compromise the barrier factor. Other homemade masks utilize pleats on the sides which can be somewhat time-consuming to construct. How can we improve the construction of a homemade mask, making it easier, yet still producing a well functioning and fitted mask?

One of my favourite, local Fabric Companies – Discovery Fabrics offered their own version of a homemade face mask that addressed all of the above issues.

Discovery Fabrics is located on the West Coast of Canada and specializes in technical fabrics. I have many favourite fabrics from Discovery, including yoga stretch (which makes great leggings), solar stretch (another great athletic fabric), bamboo terry (soft and cozy) and bamboo fleece (amazingly soft and perfect for joggers and hoodies).

What Kind of Fabric can be used to Improve a Face Mask?

As mentioned, the main purpose of fabric when it comes to a homemade face mask is to act as a barrier against droplets. Home sewers have easy access to cotton fabrics so it is no surprise that cotton fabrics are the most commonly used fabric. What was not considered, however, was the use of technical fabric.

A waterproof and lightweight technical fabric easily addresses the issue of acting as a barrier for droplets. The solution? Polartec Neoshell fabric. Neoshell is a breathable, waterproof fabric that is twice as breathable and waterproof as Goretex fabric! It is also wind-resistant, durable and very lightweight. It is machine washable on a cold setting. Typically this fabric would be used to make jackets or pants.

Discovery Fabrics offers 2 types of Polartec Neoshell – some with stretch and without stretch. Either version works. You can basically just pick the fabric based on the colour you want. They offer several solid colour options for Polartec Neoshell. Be sure to check out their chart which also describes the weight. Some Neoshell is a bit heavier than others. You’d likely not want something heavy. For the masks that I made, I use the Neoshell Stretch in Grey 66860.

For the liner, Discovery Fabrics recommends either Quick Wick Fabric or Polartec PowerDry Lightweight. Both fabrics are very lightweight, odour-resistant, wicking and breathable. Quick Wick is also microbial as it contains silver in the fibre. Only certain colours of the Polartec PowerDry contain silver. Typically these fabrics are used to make light shirts, underwear or base layers. Both fabrics are also machine washable.

I had no problem sewing with either of these fabrics. I used both my regular sewing machine, as well as my serger and there were no issues at all. They were very easy to work with.

Now one thing you will want to consider is the cost. The Neoshell is definitely more expensive than cotton.

How do I Improve the Fit of a Home Made Mask?

The whole nose wire thing just seems too fiddly to me. How can I have a good fit around the nose, without the use of wire? Discovery Fabric designed their masks to use elastic around the nose instead.

Sewing a small piece of elastic along the top centre, where the nose is located creates a snugger fit around the nose.

Elastic is also used at the bottom so that it hugs your chin. This way you get a good fit, both top and bottom. Overall, this mask is more snug-fitting. The technical fabric still makes it easy to breathe, however. I’m not sure this would work with 2 or 3 layers of cotton.

How do I Make the Mask Easier to Sew?

This mask is quite easy to sew. It is basically 2 pieces of fabric sewn together.

Many mask patterns have pleats on the sides, which may require ironing, pinning and basting, Discovery Fabrics simply gathered the sides of the mask.

For me, an easy way to gather is to use my serger. For my Babylock Acclaim, set the differential feed to 2.0 (the highest) and the setting to D. Turn off your cutting blade. When I run the fabric through, it automatically gathers. I ran it through 3 times to get the amount of gathering that I wanted. It looks kind of messy after 3 times, but it is quick and easy. This also ensures that that ear elastic is good and secure. The gathering results in a poofier mask. It does not sit flat like the pleats.

Okay, so pleats vs. gathering. Which one is easier or quicker? The difference is probably not huge. It’s a matter of personal preference. For me, gathering, using my serger is quicker and easier. If you don’t mind the pleats, then, by all means, continue on using pleats. Gathering, using the traditional method of 2 or 3 rows of long stitches and then pulling the bobbin threads may not be quicker or easier in this instance.

There are a couple of ways to wear a homemade face mask, using either elastic or binding. Elastic loops around the ears or head while the binding gives you ties to tie at the back of your head. Personally, I prefer elastic because I’m too lazy to do the ties! Binding, however, offers a great alternative when you have a limited supply of elastic.

Discovery Fabrics uses 1 long strip of binding made out of a stretch fabric. Leaving a long end to tie, the binding attached to one side of the mask on the side (the gathered part, starting at the bottom and then moving to the top), then left a length to go around the circumference of your head and then down the other side of the mask (the gathered part, starting at the top and then moving to the bottom) and then leaving a length again to tie. So the binding is 1 piece. It wraps around the top of your head and there are 2 lengths that allow you to tie behind your neck. It’s very clever and I like how it is just one long piece, instead of several pieces. Having a binding attachment would definitely make this step easier.

How to Sew a Better Face Mask

Here’s how I made my face mask, incorporating the above-mentioned improvements.

Here’s what you need:

• 1 piece of Polartec Neoshell, 6×9 or 7X9
• 1 piece of Quick Wick or Polartec PowerDry, 6×9 or 7X9
• nose elastic: 2 inches long, 1/4 inch elastic
• chin elastic: 4.5 inches long, 1/4 inch elastic
• ear elastic: 8 inches long, 1/4 inch elastic; 2 pieces
  NOTE: due to this mask being snugger with the chin elastic, I found that I needed longer pieces of ear elastic. Previously with a cotton pleated mask, I would only need ear elastic that is 6 inches long. For this design, I found that to be too snug for my liking. However, wearing this mask with a button headband solves that problem!

NOTE ON SIZING: The 6×9 sizing fit me fine, but was too short for my eldest son – it didn’t tuck under his chin well so I cut his 7×9. That extra inch fit better on him.

Sewing instructions:

• place both fabric pieces, right sides together, on top of each other
• mark the centre point on the fabric, both top and bottom; do the same with the nose and chin elastic
• matching the centre points, pin or clip the nose elastic to the top of the fabric

• I stretch the nose elastic to double in length, so 4 inches. So I start 2 inches to the left of that centre point and end 2 inches to the right of it.
  NOTE: I find it easier to put the Neoshell on the bottom. It seems to glide easier than the wicking fabric. The wicking can sometimes snag and get caught in the feed-dogs.

• stretch the elastic and sew it to the fabric using a zig-zag stitch. I stretch one end first and sew it. When I get to the centre point, I un-pin or un-clip, stretch the elastic and continue sewing. Be sure to stretch the elastic as you sew. You will have open ends on each side of the nose elastic. This, perhaps is the most “fiddly” part of making this mask. But to me, it outweighs the whole nose wire thing.
  TIP: without stretching the elastic, anchor one end to your fabric with a few stitches, then stretch the elastic
  TIP: I over-stretch the elastic so that it goes a bit past where I want it to end. As I get closer to the presser foot, I have to let go of the elastic and so it springs back a bit. I find that if I stretch it past the line, that when I let go, it seems to line up more less where it should be.

• the chin elastic will be stretched the entire bottom length of the fabric. Again, pin or clip the centre points and stretch to the ends. Sew to the fabric using a zig-zag stitch. Be sure to stretch the elastic as you sew.
  TIP: Similar to the nose elastic, anchor your unstretched elastic first with a few stitches and then stretch and sew.
  TIP: I also over-stretch at the end for this part too as it helps it line up better.

• pin or clip the ear elastic ends to sides on the inside (between the 2 layers). Leave a 1/4 inseam allowance at the top (nose elastic end) to allow for closing up later. The elastic can go right against the bottom seam that has the chin elastic. Gather the sides.

• turn the mask right side out using one of the openings to the side of the nose elastic.
• topstitch/edge stitch those 2 openings on the sides of the nose elastic closed, folding the fabric ends under to create a nice clean finish.
  You could have sewn the second opening (after the elastic) closed and then only have 1 opening, but the asymmetric aspect of that bothered me, so I left both open so that that topstitching was balanced.

If you are using the long binding like how Discovery Fabric made theirS, there are a few changes in the construction:

• sew all the way across the top when sewing the elastic. The elastic won’t reach all the way across so the beginning and end will just be 2 pieces of fabric.
• after sewing both the nose and chin elastic, turn the mask right side out. The sides will be open still.
• gather the sides
• attach the binding. Remember, it will cover the gathered sides as you make your way around.

The end result is a very light and comfortable face mask. I feel better knowing that the technical fabric provides a better barrier. To me, this is a better face mask.

Now after all that, my sons were not too keen on this design. They kept putting it on upside down (the shorter elastic is for the nose and therefore the top!) and they did not like the poofiness of the style. So for them, I went back to the pleated style.

For me, if it meant they would actually wear it, then going back to the pleated design was fine with me. At least it’s made with the technical fabric and so it is better than the cotton masks.

If you do the binding method as Discovery Fabrics does, it’s easier to distinguish the top and bottom as the open ties are on the bottom.

As with any sewing pattern, use this as a basis to suit your sewing. You may find that you like to do a certain step in a different way because it is easier. Please share below if you do! I’m always tweaking and modifying as I go.

Personally, I rarely encounter someone who only makes 1 mask. If making a bunch, feel free to do it assembly-line style. Meaning, so all the nose elastics at once. Then sew all the chin elastics at once, and so on. I find it easier and quicker this way. Also, I find that I get into a good groove with a certain step and usually my last one is the best one!

Want to remember how to sew a better face mask? Be sure to save this to your favourite Pinterest board.

Please note that I did not receive any compensation from Discovery Fabrics for this post. The views and opinions are entirely my own.