How to Sew Thumbhole Cuffs

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I’ve been doing some sportswear sewing lately and wanted to add some extra little touches to them. So here’s how to sew thumbhole cuffs.

I first encountered thumbhole cuffs in my lululemon clothing. Now, a number of other sportswear retailers incorporate these into their garments. It’s nice to have that extra bit of covering for your hands, on cooler days.

While working on a GreenStyle Creations Sewing Pattern, I came across their YouTube video on how to sew thumbhole cuffs.

While many of you prefer watching the video, pausing to do a step and coming back, once I’ve done it a few time, I prefer to refer to written instructions. These directions are based on the above video by GreenStyle Creations.

This works on any pattern that has sleeve cuffs, such as hoodies, cardigans and long-sleeved shirts. You are going to extend the cuff (make it longer) and incorporate thumb holes.

Through a series of folding and flipping and sewing in different segments, you will create thumbhole cuffs that don’t show any of the seams.

How to Sew Thumbhole Cuffs

First, you’re going to have to extend the sewing pattern piece for the sleeve cuff. Simply extend the pattern piece by 2.5 inches.

Now, you will have to make 4 markings on the right and left sides. To do this, fold your pattern piece in half vertically (also known as a hamburger fold) in order to find the centre line.

From there, I place my quilting ruler on that line, measure 1.75 inches above and make a mark on both sides.

Then I measure 1.75 inches below and make a mark on both sides.

You now should have 2 markings on each side.

Now measure and mark 2 inches above the top mark.

Lastly, measure and mark 2 inches below the bottom mark.

You should now have 4 markings on each side. Number them 1 to 4 starting at the top.

Cut your fabric using this pattern piece. Transfer the 4 markings to the fabric on both sides. I like to use a washable fabric pen for this.

With right sides together, fold the fabric in half. You will be matching the right and left sides together.

Using your sewing machine, sew between the second and third markings.

Fold the front, top and bottom corners down, to expose the top and bottom corners underneath.

Fold your pattern piece in half vertically (hamburger style; top to bottom) so that those 2 ends that were underneath are now right sides together. You will now sew between the two markings (top marking to previously sewn seam). You want to try and line it up with your previous sewing so that it is one continuous line.

Now flip it around so that sewing is at the top and locate those front two corners together that were folded down from before.

Hang on to those corners and pull the other end, so that it flips around.

You will now find the next part to sew – extending the existing sewing line.

Next, sew between those 2 ends. Again, you want to sew it so that it creates a continuous line.

Lastly, we sew those outside ends together. Flip your cuff around so that all 4 ends are out.

Grasping 2 corners in each hand, gently pull them apart. While the video says it looks like a taco or crescent roll, I think it looks more like a fortune cookie.

Sew these last 2 ends together continuing that long line. You will sew twice – each corner.

Now just flip one open end over the other and you will have your thumb hole cuff!

Optional: to reinforce the ends, sew a few zig-zag stitches or a bar tack on each end of the thumb hole opening.

Your thumbhole cuffs are done! All you have to do now is sew it to the sleeve of your garment.

These thumbhole cuffs are pretty easy to sew and are a nice extra touch to a garment. I’ve added them to hoodies and long-sleeved shirts. I love how they turned out.

Want to remember how to sew thumbhole cuffs? Be sure to save this to your favourite Pinterest board.